20 things to see in Rome
Colosseum
(Colosseo)
Perhaps the best-preserved of the monuments of ancient Rome,
this huge marble structure was built to hold more than 50,000
spectators to witness bloody contests of might and the slaughter
of wild beasts.
Pantheon,
Dedicated to the seven planetary divinities and featuring an
interior of gorgeous marble, the Pantheon is one of the most
impressive monuments of Augustan Rome
Roman
Forum (Foro Romano)
The commercial, political and religious center of ancient Rome,
which features the Arch of Septimus Severus, Temple of Saturn,
Arch of Titus and the House of the Vestals.
Piazza Santa Maria Nova 53, Rome 00186, Italy
Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi), Rome
Certainly the most famous and photographed fountain in Rome,
legend has it that whoever throws a coin into the pond will
return to Rome.
Piazza di Trevi, Rome 00187, Italy
Borghese
Gallery (Galleria Borghese)
Art museum; Art gallery -
Piazzale del Museo Borghese, 5, Rome 00197, Italy
Piazza Navona, Rome
The most outstanding square of the Baroque period in Rome features
Bernini's Fountain of Rivers at its center as it faces Borromini's
church, Sant' Agnese in Agone. Junction of Via della Cuccagna
| Corsia Agonale, Via di Sant'Agnese, Rome 00186, Italy
Trastevere, Rome
Trastevere, which lies across the river Tiber from the old centre,
is another quintessentially Roman area. The residents call themselves
the Romani di Roma, the "real Romans", and even though
the area is now swamped by tourists and foreigners who have
chosen to live there, it retains an unmistakable and authentic
essence.
Vatican Museums, Rome
The biggest collection of art in the city, including Michelangelo's
ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.
Viale del Vaticano, Rome 00193, Italy; Art museum
Campo de' Fiori, Rome
Monday through Saturday mornings, farmers and fishmongers come
to this open-air market to sell the fruits (and fish) of their
labors.
Campo de' Fiori, Rome 00186, Italy Flea/street market
Capitoline
Museum (Museo Capitolino), Rome
This museum features the Old Masters of Great Renaissance and
Baroque paintings such as Caravaggio, Bernini, Peter Paul Rubens,
Rembrandt and Vermeer.
Basilica di San Clemente, Rome
Constructed between 1110 and 1130, this church of San Clemente
is not one, but three churches built one above the other, with
ruins dating from the earliest Christian times.
Via Labicana 95 | Via San Giovanni in Laterano Piazza San Clemente,
Rome, Italy
Il
Gelato di San Crispino, Rome
Creamy ice creams and sorbets are concocted daily at this fine
shop using only the freshest ingredients. Via della Panetteria,42,
Rome 00187, Italy
Villa
Borghese, Rome
Famous villa constructed at the beginning of the 17th century
for Cardinal Scipione Caffarelli Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul
V, which is surrounded by one of the largest and most beautiful
public parks in Rome. Piazzale Flaminio, Rome 00186, Italy
Santa Maria in Trastevere, Rome
A beautiful place to spend a few minutes and recharge the batteries.
This is a serene and peaceful lovely little church where you
can sit in near silence for awhile. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere,
Rome, Italy
Porta Portese, Rome
It's worth a trip to Rome's most popular second-hand flea market,
which is open Sundays.
Flea/street market
Castel Sant' Angelo, Rome
One of the most historically significant monuments of Rome,
this structure was started in 135AD as a mausoleum for emperor
Hadrian, then turned into a fortress and a refuge of the Popes
during the citizens battles.
Lungotevere Castello 50, Rome 00193, Italy
Piazza del Popolo, Rome
Planned by Valadier at the beginning of the 19th century, this
is considered one of the best urban works in Rome.
Attraction type: Town center/square/plaza
Spanish Steps (Piazza di Spagna), Rome
Located in the heart of Rome, this vibrant and elegant square
is surrounded by 18th-century buildings augmented by the colorful
flowers that adorn the Spanish Steps. The elegant steps by Francesco
de Sanctis (1723-1726) consist of twelve flights of varying
width, which descend to the scenic Franciscan Church of Trinita
dei Monti. Its just steps so not much to do but climb or sit
Jewish Ghetto, Rome
This historical Jewish Ghetto dates back to 1555, when Pope
Paul IV restricted all Jews to a small area of the city, which
was then walled in. Today, the ghetto has wonderful eating places
with cross-cultural dishes, and a beautiful synagogue with a
small museum inside.
Baths of Caracalla (Terme di Caracalla),
Rome
The ruins of ancient Rome's public bathhouse, dating back to
the 3rd c Via delle Terme di Caracalla 52, Rome
When in Rome
Sara Manuelli reveals the gastronomic secrets
of her native city
Campo dei Fiori
Campo dei Fiori - literally, "field of
flowers" - was a select residential district in the 16th
century (the aristocratic Orsini family had a palace here),
as well as the centre of the hotel trade. Framed by pastel-hued
palazzi, recently restored in Pompeiian reds, topaz blues and
terracotta oranges, it is the only square in Rome without a
church, no mean feat in the home of Catholicism.
It is home to one of the oldest fruit, vegetable and flower
markets in Rome. The square constantly transforms itself throughout
the day. At dawn, carts rattle on the cobblestones on their
way to the stalls, laden with tightly packed wooden crates of
fruit and vegetables. Later it fills with fruit and vegetable
sellers and regular local shoppers, patiently mingling with
spellbound tourists. Around midday, the frenzy subsides slightly,
as most shoppers return home and the trattorie around the square
start putting out tables and chairs to entice punters. At about
2 pm the stalls pack up, the sellers chatting and laughing as
they manage to pile huge amounts of empty wooden boxes on to
precariously small Ape scooters.
Towards six in the evening, as people finish work and spill
out on to the streets, the local wine shop, La Vineria, run
by the Reggio family, becomes the hotspot of the square. Once
the haunt of alcoholic bohemians such as Beat poet Gregory Corso,
today La Vineria is where the beautiful, tanned Roman youth
hang out with a chilled glass of prosecco to gossip.
Il Forno di Campo de Fiori
The place to come for great crunchy salty white pizza, eaten
as a snack in brown paper that soaks up the oil.
• Campo dei Fiori 22, +06 68806662.
Antica Norcineria Viola
A family institution that's been on the square since 1880, it
sells everything pork related from wild boar sausages, cured
hams, bacon and pancetta.
• Campo dei Fiori 43, +06 68806114.
Roscioli
A deli-cum-restaurant stacked with goodies - cheeses, hams,
wines, olive oils. You can pop in for a glass of wine while
you choose your cheese or eat a light meal at the back of the
shop.
• Via dei Guibbonari 21/22, +06 6875287.
The Ghetto and Isola Tiberina
The Jewish Ghetto is the area in Rome that most feels like a
village. On weekends, especially in spring and summer, as the
sun sets and the traffic roar dies down, clusters of locals
meet for an early evening chat, perched on the steps or seated
at the outdoor tables of one of the cafes. Children roam freely
in the pedestrian area, and everybody seems to know each other
by their first names.
The most lively area is along the Via Portico d'Ottavia, a jam-packed
strip full of kosher food shops, pizzerie, bakeries and bars.
On the corner is the Pasticceria Boccioni, a bakery that has
been churning out Jewish pastries from its cramped premises
for 90 years.
In the Piazza delle Cinque Scole is Sora Margherita, a tiny
restaurant with no outdoor sign. Since 1927, it has been serving
a plate and a glass of Velletri wine to the popolino, the working
class of the city. Cook Lucia, who used to work with Margherita,
now runs the kitchen, serving classics such as pasta and ceci
(chickpea and pasta soup), baccalà in guazzetto (salt
cod in a sauce of tomatoes, pine nuts and raisins) and Roman-style
tripe.
Just underneath the portico is the Gigetto restaurant,
a Roman institution since the 1920s and famed -regardless of
its Catholic owners - for the carciofi alla giudia, or Jewish-style
artichoke hearts. Next door to Gigetto, his parents' restaurant,
Stefano Ceccarelli runs Dolce Roma, a patisserie that combines
traditional Jewish sweets such as ricotta and cherry cheesecake
with rich American- and Austrian-style pastries including Sachertorte,
and muffins.
Antico Forno del Ghetto
The Jewish bakery selling warm almond biscuits, ricotta cakes
and sweet Jewish pizza with crystallised fruits.
• Piazza Costaguti 30-31, +06 68803012.
Sora Lella
The location alone - on the Isola Tiberina (the island in the
river Tiber) makes it worth a visit. Owner Aldo Trabalza digs
deep into Roman tradition yet manages to concoct surprising
variations on the theme.
• Via Ponte Quattro Capi 16, +06 6861601.
Gigetto a Portico d'Ottavia
The best place to eat carciofi alla giudia (deep fried Jewish-style
artichoke hearts) - book a table outside under the Portico d'Ottavia.
• Via del Portico d'Ottavia 21/a, +06 6861105.
Prati and Borgo Pio
The fortified Castel Sant'Angelo, originally Hadrian's Mausoleum,
marks the beginning of the Borgo Pio and Prati area. The small
village of Borgo Pio sprung up in AD 500, next to the Vatican
just underneath the Leonina walls, hence the name Leonina city.
In AD 800, Pope Leo III consolidated the walls against the Saracens
and, when Borgo was burnt down in 846, Pope Leo IV rebuilt it
like a fortified district. For centuries, Borgo Pio was considered
an area under papal protection. It was only in 1861, when Italy
was unified into a state, that the inhabitants of Borgo Pio
voted to be annexed to the Kingdom of Italy. Today Borgo Pio
still has the slow pace of a small borough, separated from the
hustle and bustle of Rome's daily life. Its cobblestone streets
are pedestrianised, and the medieval palazzi, covered in vine
trellises and bougainvillea make way for squares filled with
the outdoor tables of local restaurants.
Beyond Borgo lies Prati, a wealthy suburb, built
after the unification and characterised by a rational grid of
housing blocks. Today, the area is largely populated by the
Roman bourgeoisie and people working in the nearby studios of
Italy's state-run TV and radio stations. A typical Prati custom
is to meet at chic bars Antonini or Vanni to sample the tartine,
tiny, freshly made bread buns filled with caviar, smoked salmon
or crab. A dash of lemon juice is all that is needed before
gulping down the delicacy, which is often served with an aperitif.
A Tavola con lo Chef
The place to attend cookery classes and a chance to see the
new generation of Italian chefs at work.
• Via dei Gracchi 60, + 06 3203402.
Dino e Tony
The best Matriciana pasta in town - just don't eat too many
antipasti or you won't have room for the traditional primi piatti.
• Via Leone IV 60, + 06 39733284.
La Tradizione di Belli e Fantucci
A gourmet shop selling over 500 cheeses, also hams and delicatessen.
• Via Cipro 8e, +06 39720349.
Mercato Trionfale
A huge fruit, veg and fish market - with good prices and excellent
quality.
Via A Doria.
Trastevere
Trastevere, which lies across the river Tiber from the old centre,
is another quintessentially Roman area. The residents call themselves
the Romani di Roma, the "real Romans", and even though
the area is now swamped by tourists and foreigners who have
chosen to live there, it retains an unmistakable and authentic
essence. There is a leisurely pace to Trastevere: the vicoli
(narrow roads) are covered with vine trellises or bougainvillea,
and sprinkled with rows of laundry hanging from windows. The
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, with its 12th-century Byzantine-
style mosaic facade, is the centrepiece of local life.
Trastevere was home to the celebrated poets, Giuseppe Gioacchino
Belli (1791-1863) and Trilussa (Carlo Alberto Salustri, 1871-1950).
Both wrote poems in the romanesco dialect; eating and joviality
were often their prime subjects. Many restaurants and bars here
bear the names of these famous sons, as if to certify the traditional
authenticity of their fare.
Along with Campo dei Fiori, Trastevere is the rione (quarter)
that boasts the most restaurants, pizzerie and bars. In fact,
for many Romans, Trastevere is largely a place to go to eat
for the evening with your friends. During the summer, the city
decamps to the district for the Festa di Noantri, a festival
that extends for eight days during July. Noantri means "us"
- in contrast to voiatri, Romans from elsewhere - reinforcing
the trasteverini notion of being veraci (authentic). During
Noantri, traffic comes to a standstill, with Romans queuing
up at stall vendors for roasted nuts, candy, toys, watermelon
slices and grattachecca, Rome's very own granita.
Ferrara
Top-notch restaurant with a huge variety of wines located in
a converted convent. The small bar at the front also offers
aperitivi with lots of snacks.
• Via del Moro 1/a, +06 583 33920.
Antica Caciaria
Fresh ricotta cheese arrives from the neighbouring countryside
every morning at 5am, and is usually snapped up by 11am.
• Via San Francesco a Ripa 50, +06 581 2815.
Ai Marmi
Crowded friendly pizza place where during summer everybody sits
outside at marble-topped tables, chatting and eating pizze,
supplì (rice balls) and croquettes.
• Viale Trastevere 53-59, +06 580 0919.
Testaccio
Just across the southern end of the river Tiber, in front of
the classy neighbourhood of the Aventine hill, lies Testaccio,
a lively, working-class area full of clubs, restaurants, food
stores and one of the noisiest food markets in the city.
Those who know Testaccio will tell you that by day it hasn't
changed much. The covered fruit and vegetable market is still
much cheaper than Campo dei Fiori, and its layout is less pretentious
and pretty. Yet it is by night that Testaccio succumbs to the
invasion of the modern era, with a maze of clubs, restaurants
and bars in and around the grottoes of the Monte dei Cocci,
now known as "Testaccio village".
Even if the influx of writers, actors and students
has changed the scene, Testaccio still manages to cling to its
proletarian roots. A working-class culture was defined when
Testaccio became the setting for the municipal slaughterhouse
in 1890. The slaughterhouse came to define the cuisine of Testaccio,
which is not for the fainthearted, let alone vegetarians. The
spiritual home of Roman meat eaters, Testaccio's restaurants
specialise in succulent dishes, the ingredients of which read
like the anatomy of a cow.
Near the market is Felice a Testaccio, a typical
trattoria run by the mercurial 83-year-old Felice. Adored by
Oscar-winning actor Roberto Benigni, who once wrote a poem in
his honour, Felice has built an establishment that is celebrated
as the place to taste succulent suckling lamb, known as abbacchio
in Rome. Beware, however, of his mood swings, and remember to
eat all the contents of your dish - otherwise Felice might well
decide you are not worthy of a second course.
Volpetti
Renowned delicatessen selling cheeses, hams, stuffed savoury
cakes, pizzas and breads from Genzano and Altamura.
Via Marmorata 47, + 06 574 2352, volpetti.com for deliveries
worldwide.
Checchino dal 1887
This restaurant just in front of the old slaughterhouse has
been serving gutsy offal such as tripe and oxtail since 1887.
• Via Monte Testaccio 30, +06 574 3816.
Felice
Traditional Roman-style trattoria - the owner might be a bit
on the grumpy side but the food is delicious and home made.
• Via Mastro Giorgio 29, +06 574 6800.
Sara Manuelli is author of Cucina Romana, published
by Conran Octopus
From StyleCity Rome by Sara Manuelli, published by Thames and
Hudson
http://travel.guardian.co.uk/cities/story/0,7450,1488594,00.html
